Natural diamonds vs lab-grown diamonds – the experts say "why not both"
The MO on the benefits (and drawbacks) of natural and lab-grown diamonds.
Natural diamonds or lab-grown diamonds? This is the question likely haunting many of those on the search for an engagement ring in 2025. Yes this is a platform for watches, but with brands like Tag Heuer pledging to add lab-grown diamonds to some selected models, it’s worth knowing the basics.
The two types of stones have a sibling-like rivalry — some primarily natural diamond brands position themselves as superior to lab diamond brands, while lab-grown brands use words like "ethical" and "conscious" in their marketing materials, which may imply that the opposite is true for the natural diamond industry.
Lab diamonds are grown in a controlled factory environment, so are naturally less intrusive than the underground mining required to recover natural diamonds. The narratives put forward by both sides of the diamond industry are difficult to navigate, given that both parties want consumers to believe their product trumps the other. But experts say it's possible to choose both.
Not all natural diamonds deserve a bad reputation
Raluca Anghel, head of external affairs and industry relations at the Natural Diamond Council a not-for-profit organization for diamond education, told usI people shouldn't feel they have to choose between the two: "Why not both?” She said that the idea that all natural diamonds are unethical is unjust, given that they are also improving the economic growth of less developed countries.
Krish Himmatramka, founder of jewelery brand, Do Amore, sells both natural and lab-grown diamonds and gemstones. His natural diamonds are sourced from Canada and the Botswana DTC [Diamond Trading Company] — Botswana, South Africa, and Namibia. Canada is one such country with strict laws around human labor and environmental impact. Development in Botswana has mainly been funded by the diamond industry, says a statement from the U.S. Department of State. He added that the country of Botswana would likely be 40% to 50% poorer if they didn't have the natural diamond industry.
The same impact can be said for other countries like Namibia where 20% of their foreign export earnings are generated by natural diamonds, per Reuters. There has been a lot of sustainable growth in African countries thanks to the diamond industry, particularly regarding infrastructure, healthcare, and education, and this shouldn't be overlooked.
Natural diamond industry standards aren't foolproof
Jewellers report that it’s difficult to find natural diamond suppliers with sufficient evidence to support their "conflict-free" claims. Conflict diamonds are also known as blood diamonds, and refer to diamonds used to fund war in war zones.
The Kimberley Process is an industry-wide scheme aimed at removing conflict diamonds from the global supply chain, and it isn't watertight. Traders need only add a few statements to their documents stating that they don't engage in trading conflict diamonds. To combat various loopholes, Canadian diamonds are sent to a CanadaMark office — a third party certification company —where they will be checked and marked as Canadian-sourced by the third party, and are inscribed with a maple leaf and unique diamond number.
Lab diamond production uses a lot of energy
The two processes used to create lab-grown diamonds are called HPHT (high pressure, high temperature), and CVD (carbon vapor deposition) according to the Gemological Institute of America.
HPHT starts with graphite and emulates the conditions of how a natural diamond is formed, whereas the CVD process begins when a seed diamond plate (a very thin slice of a diamond) is placed into a chamber where methane and hydrogen is deposited onto the seed diamond to form the bigger stone.
These processes aren't completely clean, and use a lot of energy.
The report said over 60% of lab diamonds are produced in China and India, and the majority of grid electricity is generated from coal, according to Our World in Data. Not only is it harmful for lab diamonds to use nonrenewable energy, but this also increases the level of greenhouse gas emissions from lab diamond production, the report says.