<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0" xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd" xmlns:googleplay="http://www.google.com/schemas/play-podcasts/1.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[Serving Time]]></title><description><![CDATA[Vintage watches, bold voices, major style. Time’s not just passing—it’s serving.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co</link><image><url>https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!_eNb!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fcf4da2f0-7f93-4bd4-815f-e46e7451b5e1_1125x1125.png</url><title>Serving Time</title><link>https://www.servingtime.co</link></image><generator>Substack</generator><lastBuildDate>Wed, 06 May 2026 12:03:25 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://www.servingtime.co/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><copyright><![CDATA[Serving Time]]></copyright><language><![CDATA[en]]></language><webMaster><![CDATA[servingtime@substack.com]]></webMaster><itunes:owner><itunes:email><![CDATA[servingtime@substack.com]]></itunes:email><itunes:name><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></itunes:name></itunes:owner><itunes:author><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></itunes:author><googleplay:owner><![CDATA[servingtime@substack.com]]></googleplay:owner><googleplay:email><![CDATA[servingtime@substack.com]]></googleplay:email><googleplay:author><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></googleplay:author><itunes:block><![CDATA[Yes]]></itunes:block><item><title><![CDATA[Hot wrists only: the watches you should be wearing this summer]]></title><description><![CDATA[Spoiler alert: wear a rubber &#128521;]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/hot-wrists-only-the-watches-you-should</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/hot-wrists-only-the-watches-you-should</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 21 Jun 2025 21:39:45 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:110028,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/166489972?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LgeD!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4533d4f0-cb96-4c10-a8c0-0a2c220bd02f_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p></p><p>Summer is here, and if you&#8217;re anything like me &#8211; you&#8217;re sweating from everywhere possible, including your wrist. Not metaphorically. Literally. It&#8217;s clammy. It&#8217;s sticky. And frankly, it&#8217;s questioning your life choices (specifically the one where you wore a crocodile strap to a BBQ).</p><p>Let&#8217;s be honest: some watches just aren&#8217;t built for heat. Summer requires a different horological mindset. So whether you&#8217;re jetting off to Saint-Tropez or just vibing in your local beer garden, here&#8217;s your wrist-ready summer survival guide.</p><p>First, think light. The GMT you adore in winter suddenly feels like wearing a boat anchor. Speaking of which, water resistance isn't negotiable. Even if you're not planning to recreate Baywatch, anything rated below 100 metres (the water resistance rating for watches) is asking for trouble. Your watch should survive more than just washing your hands.</p><h2><strong>The stealth wealth approach</strong></h2><p>Summer is not the time for your flashiest pieces. Summer might mean stepping out without a long sleeve, and if you live in London like me, you can pretty much kiss your watch goodbye as you leave the house. Think understated, fun, maybe even a cool colour. I went to London Watch Week a couple days prior to writing this, and a gentlemen has put a bright orange rubber strap on his watch to combat sweaty wrists. Something about a luxury Swiss watch on a rubber strap is undeniably chic.</p><h2><strong>The summer stars</strong></h2><p>Truthfully, when it&#8217;s super hot out, I actually avoid wearing any watch or jewellery altogether &#8211; though I&#8217;m coining that a watch tan line is the chicest accessory of the season. Though if I had to go for something, sports watches shouldn&#8217;t be overlooked. This is the chance to unironically wear something you might otherwise call garish &#8211; like a fun Swatch piece. A good G-Shock is practically indestructible. Yes, they're chunky, but they're also lightweight and comfortable. The Omega x Swatch collaboration would also be a great piece to get out.</p><p>Summer watches should be like summer plans: easy, low-maintenance, and full of good vibes. It&#8217;s for timepieces that live a little. So give the dress watch a rest. Let the leather straps stay in their drawer, and let your wrist breathe.</p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Going for gold]]></title><description><![CDATA[As economic jitters and geopolitical popcorn moments continue, gold is back in the headlines.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/going-for-gold</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/going-for-gold</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 01 Jun 2025 15:18:23 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:112863,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/164940727?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F0wU!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F01f3249d-c1fd-42ff-86f3-8246062eb9ac_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p></p><p>Gold prices are soaring, again. It&#8217;s back in the headlines, hitting historic highs and making everyone from central bankers to casual collectors suddenly pay a lot more attention to their bangles. But before we start melting down our heirloom earrings in a moment of financial genius, let&#8217;s take a beat. Why is gold doing what it&#8217;s doing? Hasn&#8217;t it always been expensive? And are there alternatives?</p><p>Gold has always been the drama queen of the periodic table. It&#8217;s been currency, jewellery, treasure, and the reason behind several small wars. In modern times, its price tends to leap whenever the world seems like a bit of a mess (<em>so lately, pretty much constantly</em>). In the late 1970s, gold hit the headlines during inflation spikes. In 2011, after the financial crisis, it broke records again. And now, as economic jitters and geopolitical popcorn moments continue, she&#8217;s back.</p><p>Should you be jumping on the gold train? Well, that&#8217;s up to you and your financial adviser. As for the alternatives, they might pique your interest more.</p><ul><li><p><strong>Watches</strong>: You knew this was coming. Vintage, limited-edition mechanical watches are becoming increasingly collectible, and occasionally &#8211; moon dust.</p></li><li><p><strong>Artisanal jewellery</strong>: Not just gold, but pieces with provenance and design value. Particularly think of <em>signed</em> vintage pieces.</p></li><li><p><strong>Luxury handbags</strong>: If it&#8217;s Herm&#232;s, and it&#8217;s in a box (especially if the box is blue) you might be holding something that beats the FTSE 100.</p></li></ul><p>Gold will always be gold &#8212; it&#8217;s the Beyonc&#233; of the asset world: iconic, reliable, and slightly out of reach. Whether you&#8217;re stacking sovereigns or scouring auctions for a rare Cartier Tank, the real luxury is knowing what you love might just quietly appreciate in value while you enjoy the sparkle.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support our work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Bulova: the underdog darling of vintage watch collectors]]></title><description><![CDATA[All the juicy details of this hot girl brand.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/bulova-the-underdog-darling-of-vintage</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/bulova-the-underdog-darling-of-vintage</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 29 May 2025 06:06:06 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:379541,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/164592490?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qbIe!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fba47f611-ab38-4012-8b1f-9c84a3188b73_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p></p><p>Bulova has always been that guy at the party. Cool, low-key, wearing something effortlessly stylish while the rest shout about their limited editions. Founded in New York in 1875 &#8211; <em>yes, it&#8217;s American, but the kind we like.</em> Bulova has spent the last century quietly doing its own thing &#8212; innovating, experimenting, and occasionally creating some absolute cult classics.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Serving Time! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div><p>Before quartz was a glimmer in anyone&#8217;s battery-powered eye, Bulova was already pushing boundaries. They were the first to air a radio commercial in 1926, and the first to launch a TV ad in 1941. While Swiss brands were polishing their precious metals, Bulova had their eyes on space. Literally. A Bulova chronograph even hit the moon during the Apollo 15 mission. Today, that lunar legacy is a flex they&#8217;re finally owning, with reissues that are actually&#8230; great?</p><p>Fast forward to now, and Bulova&#8217;s back on collectors&#8217; radars, especially in the vintage scene. Once overlooked by snobbier segments of the watch world, vintage Bulova pieces &#8212; especially from the early quartz era &#8212; are now finding love for their quirky designs, surprising quality, and just-left-of-mainstream appeal. Prices? Still pretty friendly, for now. But those days are probably numbered.</p><p>In a market full of brands screaming for attention, Bulova is playing a cooler, longer game. They're not chasing hype; they&#8217;re quietly reminding us they&#8217;ve been doing this longer than most, and in many ways, better.</p><p>So, if you&#8217;ve overlooked Bulova in your collecting journey, consider this your nudge. Whether it&#8217;s a space-age vintage piece or a modern collab that doesn&#8217;t take itself too seriously, Bulova&#8217;s got range &#8212; and a very real pulse.</p><div class="subscription-widget-wrap-editor" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe&quot;,&quot;language&quot;:&quot;en&quot;}" data-component-name="SubscribeWidgetToDOM"><div class="subscription-widget show-subscribe"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading Serving Time! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.</p></div><form class="subscription-widget-subscribe"><input type="email" class="email-input" name="email" placeholder="Type your email&#8230;" tabindex="-1"><input type="submit" class="button primary" value="Subscribe"><div class="fake-input-wrapper"><div class="fake-input"></div><div class="fake-button"></div></div></form></div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[China is hungry for watches, but not the ones you expect]]></title><description><![CDATA[Spending on watches in China is down, steering the whole industry into choppy waters.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/china-is-hungry-for-watches-but-not</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/china-is-hungry-for-watches-but-not</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 27 May 2025 17:37:14 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:171423,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/164579119?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!LV-P!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F14434efa-2906-4f38-a80a-2deb4ad713dc_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p></p><p>For years, China has been the luxury watch world&#8217;s golden goose. The big Swiss maisons practically engraved &#8220;Made for Mainland&#8221; on their sapphire casebacks. blingy, status-heavy timepieces flew off shelves. If it sparkled, had a moonphase, and could be spotted from across a room, it sold.</p><p>But just like low-rise jeans and flash mobs, things change and the <a href="https://www.servingtime.co/p/the-state-of-watches-2025">state of the watch industry in 2025</a> has left brands unable to rely on China for a large portion of revenue as they once could. The<a href="https://www.fhs.swiss/eng/2025_01_30_00_statistics.html"> Federation of the Swiss Watch industry </a>reports that, in 2024, &#8220;China (-25.8%) saw a stronger contraction than during the Covid pandemic.&#8221; A report from publication, <a href="https://www.luxurytribune.com/en/watches-and-wonders-2025-how-will-markets-respond-to-the-concerns-of-major-watch-industry-players">Luxury Tribune</a>, reported that Swiss watch suppliers are reporting order reductions of up to 50%. The catalyst for this slowing demand is being awarded to China.</p><p><em>So, what changed?</em></p><p>A cocktail of economic factors, shifting tastes, and (whisper it) anti-corruption crackdowns made overt displays of wealth a little&#8230; complicated. Combine that with a growing generation of savvy, style-conscious consumers who want meaning over marketing, and suddenly, the old formulas don&#8217;t tick quite the same way.</p><p>This is also why we&#8217;re seeing a rise in auction house presence in the APAC region. Sharon Chan, director of watches at auction house Bonhams said that 10 years ago most Hong Kongese clientele were between 40 and 60 years old. Today, that age looks more like buyers in their late 20s to 50s showing a huge shift in what young people want to buy.</p><p>Horology has become less about &#8220;look what I&#8217;ve got&#8221; and more about &#8220;let me tell you why this is interesting.&#8221; Of course, the appetite is still there. China remains a major player in global watch sales, and brands are watching the market closely (pun fully intended). But the playbook has changed. Flash is out. Substance is in. And luxury, it turns out, is a lot more interesting when you have to look twice to notice it.</p><p>So no, China isn&#8217;t losing its taste for watches. It&#8217;s just developing a more refined palate. Think less dessert buffet, more omakase.</p><p>And if that&#8217;s not growth, we don&#8217;t know what is.</p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Are luxury clocks the next collectible obsession? ]]></title><description><![CDATA[Phillips announced their plans to auction off nine Cartier clocks during the 2025 auction season.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/are-luxury-clocks-the-next-collectible</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/are-luxury-clocks-the-next-collectible</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 21 May 2025 21:53:06 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:203176,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/164118271?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!wDbP!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8eada9ff-b555-4e03-8132-701e7e488bc4_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Watches have graced red-carpet wrists, auction catalogues, and countless flex-y Instagram posts. But while collectors have been bidding each other into oblivion over vintage Daytonas and elusive Royal Oaks, a quieter &#8212; and arguably more luxury &#8212; category is starting to tick louder: clocks. Yes, clocks.</p><p>Spring might mean Cherry Blossoms in Japan, but to the watch world, it means one thing and only thing only &#8211; auction season. Phillips announced their plan to auction off nine prestigious Cartier clocks across auctions in Geneva and Hong Kong (a growing region for their auctions). Clocks are appreciated not just for their mechanical wizardry, but for what they <em>represent</em> &#8212; craftsmanship, balance, artistry, and often, a hint of good fortune.</p><p>Leading this horological renaissance? Unsurprisingly: Cartier. The maison&#8217;s clocks &#8212; think lacquered finishes, mystery dials, and just the right amount of Art Deco drama &#8212; are becoming hot property. Meet a Cartier collector or expert and you&#8217;ll definitely hear the term &#8220;mystery clock.&#8221; These clocks are given the name because they are made with such precision, and obviously <em>magic, </em>that the hands almost look as if they are floating. It&#8217;s said that when Cartier made the first ever mystery clock over 100 years ago, they had a full team dedicated to figuring our how to make it.</p><p>So, what&#8217;s behind this shift from wrist to room? It&#8217;s part of a broader trend: luxury is coming home. Post-pandemic, many collectors started looking inward &#8212; literally. The desire for beautiful things that live in your space, that you can admire while sipping espresso at your desk (and not just during a rare dinner out), is very real. Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin are among other brands bringing haute horlogerie to your mantelpiece.</p><p>So, are clocks the new watches? Not quite. But they are the perfect next obsession for the seasoned collector who has everything &#8212; or at least <em>thinks</em> they do</p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Natural diamonds vs lab-grown diamonds – the experts say "why not both"]]></title><description><![CDATA[The MO on the benefits (and drawbacks) of natural and lab-grown diamonds.]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/natural-diamonds-vs-lab-grown-diamonds</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/natural-diamonds-vs-lab-grown-diamonds</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 May 2025 15:54:28 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/ac67133f-0521-4b00-b2eb-4b0ba467d6bc_1456x1048.png" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic" width="1456" height="1048" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:1048,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:216484,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/heic&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/i/163786523?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!NkWu!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F73784eb9-64bd-4935-bab0-b034dbd09bae_1456x1048.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>Natural diamonds or lab-grown diamonds? This is the question likely haunting many of those on the search for an engagement ring in 2025. Yes this is a platform for watches, but with brands like Tag Heuer pledging to add lab-grown diamonds to some selected models, it&#8217;s worth knowing the basics.</p><p>The two types of stones have a sibling-like rivalry &#8212; some primarily natural diamond brands position themselves as superior to lab diamond brands, while lab-grown brands use words like "ethical" and "conscious" in their marketing materials, which may imply that the opposite is true for the natural diamond industry.</p><p>Lab diamonds are grown in a controlled factory environment, so are naturally less intrusive than the underground mining required to recover natural diamonds. The narratives put forward by both sides of the diamond industry are difficult to navigate, given that both parties want consumers to believe their product trumps the other. But experts say it's possible to choose both.</p><h3><strong>Not all natural diamonds deserve a bad reputation</strong></h3><p>Raluca Anghel, head of external affairs and industry relations at the Natural Diamond Council a not-for-profit organization for diamond education, told usI people shouldn't feel they have to choose between the two: "Why not both?&#8221; She said that the idea that all natural diamonds are unethical is unjust, given that they are also improving the economic growth of less developed countries.</p><p>Krish Himmatramka, founder of jewelery brand, <a href="https://www.doamore.com/">Do Amore</a>, sells both natural and lab-grown diamonds and gemstones. His natural diamonds are sourced from Canada and the Botswana DTC [Diamond Trading Company] &#8212; Botswana, South Africa, and Namibia. Canada is one such country with strict laws around human labor and environmental impact. Development in Botswana has mainly been funded by the diamond industry, says a statement from the <a href="https://www.state.gov/reports/2023-investment-climate-statements/botswana/">U.S. Department of State</a>.<strong> </strong>He added that the country of Botswana would likely be 40% to 50% poorer if they didn't have the natural diamond industry.</p><p>The same impact can be said for other countries like Namibia where 20% of their foreign export earnings are generated by natural diamonds, per <a href="https://www.reuters.com/article/us-anglo-american-debeers-namibia-idUSKBN1961HS/">Reuters</a>. There has been a lot of sustainable growth in African countries thanks to the diamond industry, particularly regarding infrastructure, <a href="https://www.debeersgroup.com/reports/socio-economic-impacts/botswana/the-contribution-of-diamonds-to-botswana-development">healthcare, and education</a>, and this shouldn't be overlooked.</p><h3><strong>Natural diamond industry standards aren't foolproof</strong></h3><p>Jewellers report that it&#8217;s difficult to find natural diamond suppliers with sufficient evidence to support their "conflict-free" claims. <a href="https://www.insider.com/meghan-markle-engagement-ring-conflict-free-diamond-botswana-2018-5">Conflict diamonds</a> are also known as blood diamonds, and refer to diamonds used to fund war in war zones.</p><p>The Kimberley Process is an industry-wide scheme aimed at removing conflict diamonds from the global supply chain, and it isn't watertight. Traders need only add a few statements to their documents stating that they don't engage in trading conflict diamonds. To combat various loopholes, Canadian diamonds are sent to a CanadaMark office &#8212; a third party certification company &#8212;where they will be checked and marked as Canadian-sourced by the third party, and are inscribed with a maple leaf and unique diamond number.</p><h3><strong>Lab diamond production uses a lot of energy</strong></h3><p>The two processes used to create lab-grown diamonds are called HPHT (high pressure, high temperature), and CVD (carbon vapor deposition) according to the <a href="https://www.gia.edu/hpht-and-cvd-diamond-growth-processes#:~:text=Diamond%20seed%20crystals%20are%20placed,deposit%20onto%20a%20seed%20crystal.">Gemological Institute of America</a>.</p><p>HPHT starts with graphite and emulates the conditions of how a natural diamond is formed, whereas the CVD process begins when a seed diamond plate (a very thin slice of a diamond) is placed into a chamber where methane and hydrogen is deposited onto the seed diamond to form the bigger stone.</p><p>These processes aren't completely clean, and use a lot of energy.</p><p>The report<strong> </strong>said over 60% of lab diamonds are produced in China and India, and the majority of grid electricity is generated from coal, according to <a href="https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/electricity-generation">Our World in Data</a>. Not only is it harmful for lab diamonds to use nonrenewable energy, but this also increases the level of greenhouse gas emissions from lab diamond production, the report says.</p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[The state of watches 2025]]></title><description><![CDATA[As news of tariffs, gold prices and the downturn in economies around the globe floods our feed &#8211; where does that leave watches?]]></description><link>https://www.servingtime.co/p/the-state-of-watches-2025</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.servingtime.co/p/the-state-of-watches-2025</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Priya Raj]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 15 May 2025 06:21:40 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic" width="1456" height="971" 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srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!F_EA!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a77faf1-a3bb-477d-806f-064f01aa830e_5250x3500.heic 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg role="img" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><title></title><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p>The tariffs imposed by President Trump are likely to have a huge effect on an already struggling industry. I&#8217;ve also cheated on watches and spoken to some experts in the jewellery industry, who said many brands and wholesalers are completely halting their supply to the US, <em>just in case President Trump changes his mind</em>.</p><p>With the announcement and uncertainty of tariffs (literally during Watches &amp; Wonders 2025) unsettling established supply chains. Insiders say the industry is on a bit of a standstill, hoping that China might swoop in and save the day as the luxury superhero, though <a href="https://www.fhs.swiss/eng/2025_01_30_00_statistics.html#:~:text=North%20and%20South%20America%20were,its%20high%20level%20of%202023.">stats</a> show that North and South America might be where brands should direct their attention.</p><p>So what&#8217;s up with China? Appetite for Swiss watches in China contracted to its position in 2019, during Covid, which is pretty worrying. That, paired with the <a href="https://jingdaily.com/posts/asian-consumers-power-usd25b-pre-owned-luxury-watch-market">preference</a> of younger consumers for second-hand watches, it&#8217;s not surprising at all that sales are down in China.</p><p>As for gold, I think the story might stay the same. I heard a <em>back in the </em>days story a few weeks ago. At the time when vintage watch aesthetics weren&#8217;t as popular as they are now, and at this time, people were melting down <em>the</em>Piaget Polo watch to retrieve the gold (part of me broke inside hearing this).</p><p><em>Okay</em>, back from that digression/trauma bonding &#8211; gold is at an all-time high (hopefully I&#8217;m not the one breaking this news to you). For watches, it means prices are going to go up, and with sales <em>already</em> down, I can imagine this is going to affect this even further. Watches of Switzerland <a href="https://www.watchpro.com/watches-of-switzerland-group-shutters-16-stores/">announced</a> that they&#8217;re shuttering 16 stores. While their reasons don&#8217;t suggest much, their share price did increase, so that&#8217;s something.</p><p>What it does tell me, though, is one simple fact. <em>IRL shopping is not enough.</em>DTC stores don&#8217;t have stock to sell. Young consumers are happy to hunt in auctions, flea markets, and eBay for their next watch. So while the industry for brand new watches might not look great, I think second-hand is going to <em>shine</em>. But then again, who knows what could happen.</p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://www.servingtime.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://www.servingtime.co/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p>]]></content:encoded></item></channel></rss>